On my way into the Washington Mutual at 56th and 8th Avenue, I was confronted with the biggest, ugliest rat I’ve ever seen in my life. It glared at me balefully before scuttling into a hole next to the floor vent, clearly not convinced that it should have been the one making a quick exit. It’s not like I haven’t seen a rat in NYC before, but there was something about its presence in the otherwise sterile atmosphere of a bank that sent me scuttling down the street to the Russian Vodka Room for a calming martini.
My friends and I started coming here three years ago after the family Christmas party to nibble appetizers and dish on all the crazy neighbors and random acquaintances my mother feels compelled to invite. It’s dimly lit, decorated in early British Airport Bar, and the perfect pit stop for the die-hard tippler to inhale a drink or ten and contemplate the lazy twirl of the universe. I haven’t seen anyone who screams “mobster” yet, but am convinced that they frequent the place on a regular basis – it just looks like too much of a gleeful cliche for them NOT to. The gravlax, blini and potato pancakes are all top-notch, but my guess is that all the appetizers (including pricey beluga and sevruga caviar) more than pass muster – they all pair perfectly with vodka, or whatever your poison happens to be. There’s also a world-weary gentleman behind a piano banging out a tune every now and then.
The RVR carries its own delicious vodka infusions, from wild blueberry to garlic and dill, to horseradish. I selected the horseradish for my martini, which washes your brain clean with its first sharp, peppery kick (next time I’m in there I’m suggesting they do a wasabi) and then settles down to work on your stomach. Ahhh. The waitress saw by my goofy grin that all was well at the end of the bar, and tipped me a wink before moving on. Troubles? Fughettaboutit! (Yeah, I don’t know any Russian). This is the kind of place that almost demands you get roaringly, hopelessly sloshed, carted out by long-suffering friends, and oblivious to the fact that you share real estate with hissing rodents.
Russian Vodka Room, 265 West 52nd Street (off 8th Avenue; take the C or E to West 50th Street), www.russianvodkaroom.com
